944

Do people know about the small Holland city of Den Bosch? If you don't, the fact that Den Bosch is not the actual official name of Den Bosch may be part of the reason why. More on that in a sec.

Yes, Amsterdam and all its worldly style-meets-seedy charm, romantic canals and “space cakes” are the top reason most travel to Holland, generally omitting the other half-dozen or so charming smaller metropolises worthy of a visit if you like fashion, food and culture like I do. The locals in those Dutch cities don't seem to mind too much, from what I gather. But they are the Netherlands' best-kept secrets. Rotterdam, for instance, is a modern, cosmopolitan mecca, half of which was bombed out in World War II; the result is 50 percent old-world, charming buildings and 50 percent jaw-dropping contemporary architecture dotted by bridges that defy most structural engineering sensibilities. Rotterdam is a modern architect's wet dream.

Then there are fairytale-channeling, cobblestone-covered historic cities (as in 800 years old) like Maastricht, Delft and, yes, Den Bosch. The thing is, Den Bosch is not really, well, Den Bosch. Its real name? 's-Hertogenbosch. Say that three times fast. Or even once.

's-Hertogenbosch (pronounced kinda like “sherto-yen-bos,” although I heard locals pronounce it three or four different ways when I asked; part of the problem all along, I suspect, and arguably the real reason for changing it to Den Bosch) is so quaint and picturesque that it almost looks fake, like a movie set with directors and craft service carts just behind their fetching facades. Stylish storefront after storefront after cafe after schmancy restaurant line dozens of tiny, narrow streets zigzagging the city, which is centered around a square that transforms into a farmers' market several times a week.

But don't let 's-Hertogenbosch / Den Bosch fool you. Just under its sound stage facade is a shopping goldmine. I stumbled across literally dozens of clothing, jewelry, shoe and even home ware and gift boutiques the would easily smoke the coolest non-Fashion Valley store in San Diego (and even many of those, too) in terms of quality, chicness level and price point. I actually THREW AWAY clothing and shoes I brought from the U.S. just to make room in my suitcase for my new blue leather motorcycle jacket, grey leather boots, cashmere wrap, cardigan and two pairs of pants. Oops.

Holland, you are one interesting, at times impressive, country. Thank you for hosting me, and for accepting my gratitude in the form of about a 350 euro debit card bill. Just call me "Euro Barbie," aka your little blonde Stimulus package from the States. That's my little token of appreciation. Den Bosch (or whatever the hell you want to call it) is my new little “den” of fashion nuggets.

Sarah Daoust
944 Magazine
San Diego Managing Editor