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Dr. Beth Haney on how to get a youthful glow

Fall is officially here, and most people have abused their skin and accumulated more sun damage and fine lines over the summer. Having gorgeous, smooth skin, as enjoyed in our youth, is ideal - but how do you get it? What are the safest and most effective ways to get our skin back the way it used to be?

Many fine treatments and products exist, and some are touted as the "newest and greatest" remedies for our skin. Today's cosmetic and aesthetic market abounds with unrealistic claims that ultimately confuse and disappoint the consumer.

Being in the industry, I have seen first-hand some of the latest trends and safest, most effective treatments available for the health and beauty of our skin. Let's take a look at a few different solutions. There is something for everyone that will fit any budget and lifestyle. Below I have outlined some guidelines to healthier more radiant skin for your face, neck and chest.

First, it's important to drink plenty of water. Sixty-four ounces of water per day is recommended for the average, healthy person for overall health and skin care. Water helps carry nutrients into the cells and assists in waste and toxin removal from the body. Without enough water flowing through the body, these toxins can build up and escape through the skin, and may contribute to acne. Some experts believe drinking water keeps the skin plumper and more youthful looking. Without water, dehydration sets in, causing the skin to appear dry and contributing to kidney problems.

Second, sunscreen is crucial in protecting our skin from further damage from the sun's rays. There are two kinds of rays: UVA and UVB. UVA causes most of the aging and wrinkles whereas UVB radiation is responsible for burns and long term effects such as skin cancer. You need protection from both and not just in summer! Sunscreen should be used all year long - even on cloudy days because the sun's damaging rays can penetrate through clouds. Sunscreens that contain avobenzone (UVA) and octocrylene (UVB) are effective broad spectrum applications. Other popular and effective sunscreens contain titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, however some leave a white residue on the skin that is noticeable. Brands like Neutrogena Ultra-Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock, iS Clinical Powder Sunscreen, La Roche Posay Anthelios Sunscreen, and others are effective and widely available in medical spas, dermatology offices and department stores. Because the amount of sun exposure varies significantly person to person and there are many factors to consider, re-application is essential for everyone. When evaluating sun burn protection factor (SPF), it is best to take into consideration the amount of sun exposure you will receive, time of day, geographical location, and weather conditions. The recommended SPF is 30 to 50 and even higher.

Third, Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) treatments are the gold standard for actually reversing sun damage and creating a more even skin tone and, therefore, a more youthful appearance. IPL treatments stimulate collagen production, and decrease the appearance of fine lines, sun-spots, redness and vessels. The treatment consists of multiple pulses of intense light applied to the face, chest or hand for approximately 10-15 minutes. There is no down-time, and patients can go back to work immediately depending on the intensity of the treatment. The treatment begins with a cool gel applied to the area to be treated. Dark glasses are worn to protect eyes. The smooth glass surface of the IPL hand piece is gently applied to your skin and pulses of light are applied. A slight stinging, like a snap of a small rubber band, might be felt. An anesthetic cream may be used but is seldom required. Several treatments may be needed to achieve desired affects, and the amount of treatments needed depends on the severity of the problem.

The greatest benefits from IPL treatments are significant reduction in uneven pigmentation, potentially a significant reduction in redness from damaged veins and capillaries, reduced appearance of age-brown spots or birth marks and potential elimination of certain types of unwanted hair. Costs for IPL treatments range in price from $199 - $450 each.

Is there a downside, you ask? Not really. Treatments DO NOT cause cancer because IPL wavelengths are different than the sun's radiation wavelengths. Noticeable improvement can be seen within one to two weeks.

Topical skin preparations that include kojic acid, hydroquinone, or Retin-A or its derivatives improve skin appearance by lightening pigments and helping to prevent the activity of cells that produce freckling or hyperpigmentation. Obagi Nu-Derm is a popular prescription skin lightening system as well as over-the-counter products such as Sonya Dakar products, Clinique, Meladerm, and many more. Antioxidant ingredients like Vitamin C and Vitamin E are also beneficial to skin appearance.

Products that contain antioxidants are: iS Clinical C and E Serum, iS Clinical Super Serum, Obagi-C Clarifying Serum, Obagi-C Therapy Night Cream and Skinceuticals. Over-the-counter products are too numerous to mention, so look for ingredients such as Vitamin C, caffeine, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA), acai berry, alpha-lipoic acid, and green tea extracts. These ingredients help protect collagen and prevent cell breakdown in the skin that leads to facial lines.

In using any of the treatments or products outlined above, it is always important to seek the advice from a healthcare provider who is experienced and well educated in the latest trends providing the best treatments for your unique skin. Qualified providers include aesthetically trained doctors, dermatologists, nurse practitioners (NP), registered nurses (RN), physician assistants (PA), and aestheticians.

About Beth Haney
Beth Haney, DNP, FNP-C, is a Doctor of Nursing Practice, Family Nurse Practitioner and CEO of Luxe Aesthetic Center in Yorba Linda, CA. She has been practicing aesthetics since 2001. She is also President-Elect for the California Association for Nurse Practitioners, a primary health care provider at Fullerton College Health Center, and is an Assistant Clinical Professor in the University of California, Irvine graduate program in nursing science.

References for article: Camile L. Hexel, MD, Scott D. Bangert, MD, Acelaide A. Hebert, MD and Henry W. Lim MD (2008), Current Sunscreen issues: 2007 Food and Drug Administration sunscreen labeling recommendations and combination sunscreen/insect repellent products. J AM ACAD DERMATOL Volume 59, Number 2,
Forestier, Serge (2008). Rationale for Sunscreen Development. American Academy of Dermatology, Inc.