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San Diego's Reigning 'It' Neighborhood Comes Into Its Own

In the mid-’90s, what is now the most done-up and spirited strip in San Diego was little more than a three-lane road with no stop signs and a scattered, unremarkable storefront. Today, India Street is considered the “commercial spine” of Little Italy’s beautified 48-block radius, bursting with boutiques, galleries, salons, cafes and, yes, the smell of garlic.

The ongoing renaissance of San Diego’s oldest commercial district coincides with efforts by the non-profit Little Italy Association (LIA) and its Executive Director Marco Li Mandri’s vision of an urban-cosmo neighborhood, rooted in the history of its Italian immigrant population. Li Mandri’s first triumph indicating Little Italy’s rejuvenation was the sign that marks its heart; hanging proud since fall of 2000, visitors and locals passing along India Street are reminded of where they are and where they love to be.

But the work is far from over, says Li Mandri, who estimates Little Italy’s redevelopment project is about 40 percent complete. The current focus of the LIA is expanding the already vibrant street-side culture that invites pedestrians to shop, stop, dine and lounge along the old fashion street grid. Inspired by travels to Little Italy neighborhoods of New York, Philadelphia and Chicago, Li Mandri attempts to recreate what works there, here, putting to good use the association’s no-joke revenue slated to peak this year with an estimated $1.5 million derived from property and business taxes.

The sense of community in Little Italy is surely helped along by properly redistributed tax dollars, but more importantly, the spirit of the neighborhood has been energized all along by loyal residents and business owners. Local architect, developer and preservationist, Jonathan Segal took a chance on the neighborhood before the association formed and the pre-India Street boom with the Columbia Fir Lofts in 1992.

The successful loft project spurred many more in the neighborhood, and eventually the ultimate accolade to Little Italy’s history — The Waterfront bar. “The other bidder wanted to build an airport parking garage,” Segal explains. “So we outbid, saving it, and chose to build upon the history of San Diego instead of tearing it down.”

The result is a still-standing Waterfront with mixed loft/commercial structures on each of its sides. After a total of eight developments in Little Italy, Segal says he still believes that “the most important part of this neighborhood — the magic — is that it has a soul. Buildings constructed at different points in history come together to tell a story.” Thanks to Segal, The Waterfront remains an unsinkable meeting place and the city’s oldest living bar.

Emerging from The Q: A New Little Italy

Tall, dark and sharp-edged, Segal’s Little Italy mixed-use development is more than a handsome sight; it embodies the neighborhood’s resilience and vitality. As the building was halfway off the ground, the economy was mid-plummet, forcing Segal to rethink his development in order to avoid what very well could have been, in his words, “a disaster.” The architect deftly changed directions, transforming six floors of would-be office space to 27 apartments, all of which rented out in a swift 35 days. Its commercial storefront, though stoic with a concrete, steel and glass façade, manages to exude an inviting transparency. The Q is proving itself to be not just a building, but an attitude, and the businesses within are adjusting Little Italy’s identity one new trend at a time — from Bencotto Italian Kitchen’s old school pasta served with modern flare to Red Velvet’s raised wine-bar culinary standards to the Euro-inspired “future of coffee,” Influx.

Thanks to the LIA’s attention and funding, business owners are drawn to India Street’s storefront. Arsalun Tafazoli, known for his chance-success East Village gastro-pub, Neighborhood, and succeeding hidden bar hit, Noble Experiment, considered Little Italy a place of opportunity to open the meat-centric, American eatery plus beer/cocktail lounge, Craft & Commerce. “People who live and work in Little Italy don’t want to eat just pasta,” says the half-Italian Tafazoli, whose culinary team’s “nose-to-tail” menu features the likes of brisket, cured meats and fried chicken. Original sauces and accouterments are meant to arouse nostalgia in otherwise unfamiliar dishes — an homage to non-pretentious, economical cuisine.

Another soon-to-open India Street restaurant is Francesca’s, Chef Scott Harris’ first California restaurant venture. Harris is backed by the momentum of 20-plus successful restaurants serving the Chicago area, including his first Mia Francesca, praised from the get-go, and continually a place locals flock to for contemporary trattoria fare. The newest addition to the Francesca family of restaurants will open next door to Princess Pub later this month.

Coffeehouse Spotlight: Influx

Despite the fact that Italian roast coffee flows at several established cafes in the neighborhood, Jason Twilla’s Influx is always packed with a crowd of mobile commuters who appreciate freash house-baked goods and a bevy of specialty drinks, including traditional Italian Sodas. An inspiring indoor space and equally cool patio seating complete with surround sound music make for a fitting location for Twilla’s refined second establishment. “There’s no other area in San Diego I’d rather be — the Little Italy Association does such an awesome job with everything that it’s overwhelming at times,” says Twilla. “Flags are constantly being changed, sidewalks are cleaned, trash is emptied … it’s contagious, and makes everyone want to be a part of this neighborhood.” Influx café has no art on the walls, but its tall ceilings and spanning windows look out onto the moving picture that is Little Italy’s main drag.

Italian Restaurant Spotlight: Bencotto

When Guido Nistri and Valentina di Pietro opened their Italian kitchen doors last winter, they weren’t sure how they’d be received in a neighborhood packed with pasta-centric eateries. While some critics have bellyached that Bencotto’s “pasta your way” is not keeping in the tradition of stereotypically controlling Italian chefs, Bencotto’s 90 possible carb and sauce combinations have earned the Little Italy newcomers instant success. “I’ve never seen people go so crazy for fresh pasta,” says Milan-native di Pietro. “But Americans love having choices, so our menu is meant to respect that.”

As supplies run low throughout the day, the “executive cook” (as Executive Chef Fabrizio Cavallini prefers to be called) retreats to Bencotto’s “pasta lab,” where exquisite pillows of dough are rolled then stuffed with rotating fillings. Bencotto is fixing a new wave of pasta addicts with creations like the caramel candy-shaped porcini and ricotta-filled pastas sauced in gorgonzola cream and scattered with poppy seeds.

Top 9 Reasons to Rediscover Little Italy
by Alyssa Zeman

ONE / Anthology Check out ‘80s alt rock band Modern English performing at Anthology on September 5.
1337 India Street, Little Italy | 619.595.0300 | anthologysd.com

TWO / Melero Boutique & Gallery Peruse international clothing and accessories, plus a little contemporary art housed in a renovated, historical “pray house.”
1918 India Street, Little Italy | 619.546.4226 | melerobg.com

THREE / JETT Gallery Explore this sleek gallery showcasing art, sculpture and modern furniture by emerging and established artists.
989 W. Kalmia Street, Little Italy | 619.231.2466 | jettgallery.net

FOUR / Be Beauty Shop for locally made jewelry and dresses under the $100 mark before checking out the full-service skincare/makeup/mani/pedi salon.
621 W Fir Street | 619.795.4585 | bebeautifully.com

FIVE / Burger Lounge San Diego’s growing burger chain has opened yet another location, this time in the heart of Little Italy on India street. Grass-fed Grilled Lounge Burger, anyone?
1608 India Street, Little Italy | 619.237.7878 | burgerlounge.com

SIX / Boomerang for Modern This eclectic store carries one-of-a-kind, unique items, both vintage and new.
2475 Kettner Blvd., Little Italy | 619.239.2040
boomerangformodern.com

SEVEN / Rosamariposa Jewelry and accessories stock this storefront boutique with crafty pieces picked up personally on the owner’s trips to Indonesia.
611 W. Fir Street, Little Italy | 619.237.8064 | rosamariposasd.com

EIGHT / Enoteca Style This intimate hang feels modern yet cozy, with delectable paninis, salads and a thoughtful wine list.
1445 India Street, Little Italy | 619.546.7138 | enotecastyle.com

NINE / Fabrison’s Sweet Café and Boutique Find authentic French crepes and killer coffee inside this charming hole in the wall.
1425 India Street, Little Italy | 619.955.8834 | fabrisons.com

Wine Bar Spotlight: Red Velvet

Red Velvet isn’t just another wine bar that serves food. The eight-item menu changes regularly, aimed at a complete culinary experience marrying wines with impeccably crafted cuisine. Chef Luke Johnson’s simple dishes use four to five ingredients at a time, kindling French and Italian influenced coastal California styles.

Farmer’s Market Spotlight: The Little Italy Mercato

Approximately 3,500 people shop among at least 90 booths every Saturday from 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. for the best local, organic produce, “clean” meats, plants, flowers, coffee, sauces, quiches, and even cracked-to-order sea urchin and freshly shucked oysters.
Inside tip: The LIA presents two hours of free parking every Saturday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. at Washington Elementary School’s parking lot.